Today I moved on from Rouen to Les Andelys. There are a number of superb castles in the area and it is worth highlighting two here. Gisors was originally built by William the Conqueror, or William the Red as the French like to call him, to protect Normandy from the Kings of France. It proved an important castle for the Angevins too as they battled to retain this disputed territory against the French. Henry II strengthened the castle by replacing the original wooden structure with a stone built shell keep. While Richard was held captive on his journey back from the crusades, Philip Augustus took full advantage and seized control of Gisors. On Richard's return, he fought to regain his lost lands. In 1198, Richard attacked Philip's army with the ferocity of a 'starving lion'. Philip's army retreated at such speed to Gisors and in such numbers, that the bridge broke and the King of France 'drank of the river'. Around twenty French knights were drowned and over 100 were captured.




The castle at Gisors

It appeared that I had timed my visit to Les Andelys to coincide with the annual outing of the entire French fire service. The town was gridlocked by hundreds of fire engines and numerous appendages. The sun was beating down for the first time during my stay and here I was in a traffic jam. I managed to escape by attaching myself to a passing wedding party and with hand on horn completed the final kilometre of my journey on the wrong side of the road.

I eventually found my hotel, an attractive but aging property on the banks of the Seine. It reminded me of my Auntie Rita’s house; outwardly impressive, but it had clearly seen better days. Inside, the large rooms had a certain grandeur, but were too dark and smelt as though no fresh air had entered this century. And, oh God! No tv in the entire hotel! I just assumed... And tonight of all nights! I remembered passing a bar not far away and so set off to watch the game. The French are obsessed with lottery games and the first three bars I try are all watching their national lottery, with no interest in the Coup du Monde. I have to walk a further two kilometres before I find a bar proposing to show the match. There is still some time before kick off and I ask if I can eat. The restaurant was completely empty, but apparently they were fully booked! I found another restaurant and explained to the staff that I would appreciate being served quickly because of ‘le foot’. The waitress looked at me with all the sympathy of a recently divorced woman. With ten minutes until kick off my pizza finally made its entry. No deep pan here, but a selection of toppings carefully arranged on what appears to be a gigantic water biscuit. I arrive late and have missed England’s best moment. No one speaks any English in the bar, but most show sympathy following Green’s howler; clearly the Americans are held in less regard than the English here.



The spectaculor Chateau Gaillard at Les Andelys, built by Richard to control the Seine and completed in 1198.